Explore the Bentonite Hills in Utah

Just west of Hanksville, among the wild and wonderfully strange landscapes around Capitol Reef National Park, the Bentonite Hills stand out.

They're full of color, in an area that's otherwise mostly dry, dead, and monotone.

The striped hills reveal their colors in the hour or two around sunrise and sunset - muted blues, purples, and reds, becoming more and more vibrant, looking almost as if they were painted into the earth.

Maybe you've seen photos of them and are wondering if they're even real.

We can assure you they are, and they can be surprisingly colorful, but you'll need to visit them at the right time.

And while you're making the trek, you might as well plan for some side trips, because there are other spots around the hills that are just as stunning and well worth the drive.

We've put everything together in this guide: why is it this place looks like Mars, how do you get there, and what else is there to do near the Bentonite Hills?

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How to Get to the Bentonite Hills in Utah

If you want to see the Bentonite Hills, you'll have to be ready to venture out into the remote parts of central Utah. And then go a little further.

They're located right on the edge of Capitol Reef National Park, which is close to the town of Torrey, Utah.

The hills themselves are closest to an even smaller town, Hanksville. It's a four hour drive from Salt Lake City, and about two hours from Moab.

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As far as actually reaching the hills, there's a bit more to it than your average road trip.

That's because the Bentonite Hills are just one stop along an epic off-road circuit called the Cathedral Valley Loop. It weaves in and out of Capitol Reef, passing through the park, and then back onto BLM land multiple times.

The hills are actually on BLM land, just outside the park boundary.

But the start of the drive requires a short river crossing, and from there it's at least nine miles down the rocky, sandy, and sometimes narrow Hartnet Road.

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So the answer to the next question you might be asking is: yes, you will need a high clearance 4x4 vehicle. If driving across a river, over large rocks, or through soft sand isn't daunting enough, the Bentonite Hills themselves have a reputation for turning into a mud of peanut-butter-like consistency when wet.

Undaunted? Fantastic. Read on!

And if you don't have a 4x4 vehicle, there are some alternative options:

// Rent a local Jeep. There are surprisingly few choices in the area, and it can create a bit of a logistical headache. But this was the option we chose when we visited. Capitol Reef Jeep Rentals operates out of Thousand Lakes RV Park. They only have two rentals, but if you're planning ahead you can probably get one.

If you don't mind extra driving or if you're already planning to explore further, there are some companies that rent out of Escalante and Moab.

// Take a guided 4x4 tour. This is the most practical option if you're just passing through, or aren't comfortable doing some off-road driving. You can see the entire Cathedral Valley Loop, including the Bentonite Hills, in about 4-5 hours on a private tour, with a knowledgeable local guide.

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A Little Geology & Some Cool Photos

The Bentonite Hills in Utah are part of the Brushy Basin Member of the Morrison Formation.

And, what in the world does that mean, right? Well, it's basically geologist-speak to say this layer has been dated back to the Jurassic period, roughly 150 millions years ago.

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Southern Utah looked a lot different back then.

Rather than arid desert and dusty dirt roads, it was a lush lowland basin and would've been dotted with rivers, floodplains, and swampy wetlands.

Over time, sediment accumulated in the basin through those ancient waterways.

But then another key element came along: volcanic ash.

Clouds of it drifted across the landscape, settling into the muddy floodplains and swamps. And when that ash mixed with the sediment, it transformed into bentonite clay.

And that's precisely what makes the Bentonite Hills so unique. The volcanic ash.

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When it's dry, the ground has a popcorn-like texture that you'll only notice once you're up close.

And when it's wet.. well, we already talked about how it turns into an incredibly slick and sticky mess.

Erosion has formed these clay deposits into the smooth domes we see today, and revealed layers of sediment and ash that oxidize and take on soft pastel hues.

The layers are one of the most visually stunning things you can find in Utah, or anywhere out west.

And while they do truly take on a multi-colored, pastel appearance, that's only when the sun is low or during blue hour (the time shortly after sunset or before sunrise).

As you can see, during harsh, midday sun, the hills actually have a dull, washed-out look. They're still exciting to see, but nothing compared to the show at sunset.

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Some have even referred to these hills as the 'rainbow mountains of Utah.'

And, frankly, we think that's a bit of a stretch.

You'll see a range of colors from red to purple, blue, and even hints of green, but don't come expecting to see a full rainbow.

Regardless, the hills are stunningly beautiful. One of those landscapes that forces you to stand and pause in awe of Creation.

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They're also delicate.

You'll find only a few places to safely pull off the road as you visit the Bentonite Hills. Please do so carefully and only park on previously disturbed areas.

The same can be said about foot travel. The National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management encourage visitors to practice Leave No Trace principles while they're here.

You'll notice many paths winding through the hills. And as you step on this bizarre, crusty soil it'll become obvious how quickly it can be damaged. Every footprint can remain visible for years.

Use existing footpaths to traverse up and over the hills, where you can enjoy the view from the top of several domes, without leaving an impact.

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The Best Time to Visit

To see the hills in their full glory, you'll want to be there right around sunrise or sunset. That's when the hills appear most colorful and it's an excellent time for photography.

Logistically, this can be difficult unless you have your own 4x4 or are renting one for more than one day.

But if you're able to get there before dawn, or stay after dusk, you'll be rewarded. Blue hour (shortly after sunset or just before sunrise) is when the colors become most vibrant and you'll get the best photos.

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The best time of year to visit the Bentonite Hills area is in the late spring or the fall. The average temperature in April and May only reaches into the 70s (low 20s C), making it quite comfortable. From late September into early November you can expect about the same.

The summer months bring more extreme conditions, with highs in the upper 90s (35 C). It's a mostly dry climate with lots of direct sunlight, however, afternoon storms during 'monsoon season' can result in flash floods, even with very little rain.

And remember that any precipitation can make it very risky to drive into the Bentonite Hills.

Winters tend to be somewhat mild. Snowfall is unpredictable, but typically light and adds an extra layer of beauty to all the red rocks. While crowds here are rarely much of a concern, they'll be especially thin at this time of year.

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A Few Considerations Before You Go

Let's answer a few more common questions about a trip to explore the Bentonite Hills.

// Do you need a permit? No. If you're strictly visiting the hills, then you don't need any permit and there's no fee.

// Is it free? Are there any fees? There's no fee to visit the Bentonite Hills, since they're on public BLM land. If you plan to drive any further down the Cathedral Valley Loop, you'll be entering Capitol Reef National Park and will need to pay an entrance fee for that.

// Are drones allowed? Yes, drones are allowed on BLM land, so you can fly them at the Bentonite Hills. However, again, you need to be aware of the boundaries with the national park. Drones are not allowed in Capitol Reef or any US national park.

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Things to Do Near the Bentonite Hills

The Bentonite Hills are located near Hanksville, and this area is truly one of our favorite parts of the country. It just holds so many incredible and diverse landscapes. So, we could talk at length about all the things you can do nearby. In fact, we have, right here.

In this post, we'll give you a brief preview of some of our favorites. We've already written in-depth blog posts about most of these, so be sure to check those out as well when planning your trip.

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Drive the Full Cathedral Valley Loop

If you've come this far, you might as well drive the entire loop. Some of the highlights beyond the Bentonite Hills are the South Desert Overlooks, the Upper Cathedral Valley Overlook, and the Temples of the Sun & Moon.

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Hike out to Long Dong Silver

There's a mysterious spire of black rock out in the middle of nowhere and it's been attracting rock climbers for a while. Then they gave it a weird name, and it blew up on social media.

It seems like cool rocks are relevant to your interests, otherwise you probably wouldn't be here. So, read our guide to finding Long Dong Silver, take a short hike out there, and see it for yourself.

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Gaze out from Moonscape Overlook

Why go all the way to the moon when you can just go to Utah?

It truly feels like a different world sometimes. And Moonscape Overlook is a great example of that.

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Another incredible landscape you'll pass to get here is Factory Butte which, like everything else, is a sight to behold at sunrise.

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Get a Glimpse of the Mars Desert Research Station

Speaking of different worlds - did you know scientists actually come here to simulate what it would be like to live and work on Mars?

No, seriously. Hanksville is home to the MDRS, or Mars Desert Research Station. It's not open to the public, so you won't actually be able to visit, but if space stuff is really your thing you can drive by and take a look at the facility from a distance.

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Visit Capitol Reef National Park

There's plenty more to this park than Cathedral Valley. Heading west from Hanksville, you'll reach a desert oasis called Fruita. This is where the heart of the park is, with a concentration of attractions that blend natural landscape with the history of early settlers.

You can check out a good portion of the park with just one day in Fruita and as part of a larger Utah road trip.

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Hike Among the Hoodoos in Goblin Valley State Park

There's yet another otherworldly landscape called Goblin Valley that's about a 40 minute drive north of Hanksville.

Round capped rock formations called hoodoos litter three small valleys by the thousands.

And the area is open for hikers to freely wander and explore, but there are also several established trails leading to overlooks, canyons, and a cave known as the Goblin's Lair.

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Where to Stay or Camp Near the Bentonite Hills

If you want to stay near the Bentonite Hills you can either camp for free on public land, in a paid campground, or book one of the limited hotel or short term rental options.

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Camping & Boondocking

Along the Cathedral Valley Loop, there's a free NPS campground. It's at the halfway point and the primitive sites are first come, first served. There are only six sites, but another option on the loop is to boondock outside the park boundaries on BLM land.

You can also spend the night at Moonscape Overlook, which is the best way to catch incredible sunrise views there.

Fruita Campground is inside Capitol Reef and it's just down the road from the visitor center. There are 71 sites that require reservations ahead of time.

Other nearby campgrounds include Dukes RV Park, Sleepy Hollow Campground in Caineville, and Goblin Valley State Park Campground.

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Hotels & Short Term Rentals

If you're looking for a hotel room, two options are the Cathedral Valley Inn and Whispering Sands Motel.

There are some unique short term rentals in and just outside of Hanksville. The Muddy Creek Mining Company has modern cabins with king and double queen beds, and the geodesic domes at Blue Valley Domes are fully furnished, with a separate private bathhouse.

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