Summer Road Trip into Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Several years ago, when travel unexpectedly changed and we found ourselves looking for new opportunities to explore outside our own backyard, we fell in love with Michigan. Over 18 months time we repeatedly packed our bags to drive north, venturing into new corners of the state and experiencing what each season had to offer.

Craving adventure and with just one week to satisfy it, we spontaneously planned the Upper Peninsula summer road trip we’d always wanted to do.

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Sleeping Bear Dunes

Our first leg added 425 miles to the truck’s odometer. We made our way north, kayaks and camping gear neatly loaded in the back, views of the water on our minds. Traverse City served as our first hub, the gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

Of course, Traverse City is in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula and this was technically our Upper Peninsula road trip, but we couldn’t resist stopping for a few attractions in the area.

Sleeping Bear’s Dune Climb served as a challenging introduction to the lakeshore, but offered beautiful views of Glen Arbor Lake as well as miles upon miles of rolling sand dunes.

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Our hopes of reaching the top of the steep bluff with a view directly down onto Lake Michigan were shattered when we found the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive closed. In another failed attempt we went to North Bar Lake Beach hoping to walk along the water and reach the bluff from a different direction, but recent storms had left too many fallen trees in our path.

Instead, we resigned to our fate and passed an hour or more relaxing in the crystal clear waters along a sandy shore that, on a sunny day, could pass for the Caribbean.

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Once we pulled ourselves away from the beach we ventured down to the Empire Bluff Trail for a 1.5 mile round trip hike, ending at a boardwalk with unforgettable views of the dunes from high above.

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It seemed hiking, sunbathing, and swimming just weren’t enough to satisfy us that day. A spontaneous, and maybe slightly frenzied, Google search during the hour before sunset turned up a kayak put-in on Little Platte Lake.

We arrived to an empty parking lot, save one vehicle, which left just as we began unloading. With the last bit of daylight we took some photos and enjoyed a brief, but relaxing paddle on the lake’s shallow waters.

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Old Mission Peninsula

The second Lower Peninsula attraction we couldn’t resist and a fitting sequel to a day of physical outdoor adventuring was the wine trail along Old Mission Peninsula.

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The Mari Vineyards villa, with architecture reflective of the family’s Italian heritage, is seated on top of a hill with serene views overlooking the east arm of the Grand Traverse Bay. Anyone familiar with the TV show The Curse of Oak Island will be able to associate it with Marty Lagina, one of the show’s primary cast members.

An unseasonable heat wave bringing temperatures in the 90’s made outdoor seating more than a little uncomfortable, but it still wasn’t enough to ruin our visit. We walked the grounds and continued on with a bottle of Malvasia Bianca in hand.

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Our next two stops offered a slight measure of relief from the heat. We checked in for our reservation at Brys Estate, which included seating on a shaded outdoor patio with views overlooking lush vineyards in all directions. 

Chateau Chantal, sporting the most relaxed atmosphere, welcomed us with the option of one glass or a tasting of three wines, included in the prepaid price of $10 per person. We opted for the glass and took them out to the west patio, where we were told we’d get better views and a more secluded atmosphere. 

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Both proved to be true and we spent our visit walking alone among the rows of vines along the ‘Founders Trail’ and enjoying the views, this time over the west arm of Grand Traverse Bay.

The microclimate lending itself to unique growing conditions for grapes isn’t the only thing this region of northern Michigan is known for. The National Cherry Festival in Traverse City draws over 500,000 people annually in July.

We’re suckers for a local specialty, so we pulled off the side of M-37, the route cutting north-south through the peninsula, and visited Edmondson Orchards’ Cherry Connection. Shortly after we walked away with two pounds of delicious cherries.

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Another roadside stop brought us to Hooper’s Farm Gardens, a residential property like something out of a fairytale. Several picturesque outbuildings literally surrounded by blooming gardens of all different flower varieties.

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The owner and her dog stepped out as we pulled into the small parking area and casually explained to us that nothing was off limits. We should just grab some shears, a basket, and make our way around the property, clipping whatever stems we liked and leave the money at the cash box.

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After gathering and tying together an eclectic bouquet we ventured up to the very northern tip of the peninsula to take in the Mission Point Lighthouse, which dates back to 1870 and is perched on top of a 14 foot sand bank with wooden stairs leading down to its own small beach. We took our time to enjoy the views, having felt like we’d experienced about as much as one could in a day on Old Mission Peninsula.

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Torch Lake

We’d had Torch Lake saved on our Midwest bucket list for some time. As we passed north to cross into the Upper Peninsula we knew we had to dedicate an afternoon to its crystal clear waters and massive sand bar. We chose to first paddle upriver in our kayaks from the Michigan DNR boat ramp toward the southern end of the lake.

After breaking out into the open water we were immediately greeted with views of the sandbar. Anchored pontoon boats were scattered everywhere and sunbathers stood in water ranging from ankle to knee deep.

We chose a spot of our own, let the anchor drop into about two feet of water, and timidly climbed out of our kayaks. On another cloudless 90 degree day the comfortable water and Caribbean-like vibes were more than welcome.

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Crossing the 'Mighty Mac'

An hour and half drive north and we arrived at one of the highlights of any Upper Peninsula trip - crossing over the Mackinac Bridge. At 26,372 feet it’s the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere. We paid our $4 toll and officially entered the UP.

The clear skies and thick humidity quickly gave way to heavy fog as the sun set and we approached our first campsite at the Tahquamenon Rivermouth. Eager anticipation shifted to high alert in the fog as we passed unfamiliar ‘moose crossing’ signs along the side of the road.

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Tahquamenon River &Falls

Day one was set aside for a visit to Tahquamenon Falls. The lower falls surround a small island in the river and we jumped at the opportunity to rent a row boat and paddle our way across to the 0.5 mile loop trail. We couldn’t resist the chance to step into the water and experience the falls from up close either.

The upper falls offered a 0.3 mile trail to several overlooks, but our minds were preoccupied. Instead, we returned to dine at the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub. That’s right, a brewpub located inside a state park.

We sat down to enjoy a refreshing wheat ale, fall-off-the-bone barbecue chicken, and our first pastie - a UP staple, similar to a pot pie covered in brown gravy, that is a must-try. Oh, and it’s pronounced “PASS-tee”.

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The evening along the Superior coast turned out to be extraordinarily calm and we knew we’d made the right decision bringing our kayaks along for the journey.

From the put-in just across from our State Park campground we paddled the winding mouth of the Tahquamenon, spotting wildlife in the marshy grasses and soaking in sunset from the water.

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Whitefish Point

Just a thirty minute drive from the falls took us to Whitefish Point, a cape jutting out into Lake Superior and unoccupied aside from the oldest operating lighthouse on the lake.

The stretch of Superior here is known as the “Graveyard of the Great Lakes” and visitors can come to learn more at the Shipwreck Museum or even dive in the bay and explore the remains of hundreds of ships lost at the Whitefish Point Underwater Preserve.

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Au Sable Lighthouse

There are a couple of things you can’t see enough of in the Upper Peninsula: waterfalls and lighthouses. On day two we ventured out to Au Sable Lighthouse for a 3.0 mile round trip hike. The reward is the 86 foot tall, 19th century structure and outbuildings that make up the light station.

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According to the National Park Service a hot, humid day with south winds will bring biting flies to the shore of Lake Superior.

We had a hot, humid day with south winds. 

During our hike on the flat, well cleared trail along the wooded coastline we were overcome by flies. Fortunately we had done as much as we could to prepare and quickly made the change into our long pants and socks despite the heat. Insect repellant does nothing to dissuade the flies, but stepping out onto the beach with mild winds during the last mile or so of our hike seemed to keep them mostly at bay.

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Pictured Rocks

We passed through the small city of Munising and settled into our next campsite on Au Train Beach. Rain that moved in overnight brought our only day of inclement weather and low visibility. The day that was set aside for kayaking up close and personal with the Pictured Rocks started off looking pretty bleak. 

We arrived early at Pictured Rocks Kayaking and checked in, assured that unless lightning or high rolling waves from the western part of the lake appeared, the tour was on as scheduled. A mechanical issue with our boat - PRK is the only authorized kayaking tour company in the area that launches your kayak from a boat - resulted in a two hour delay.

What might have spoiled the experience turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Between groups being moved onto a different tour or backing out all together we were left alone with our guide and one other couple. 

We set off for the 15 mile cruise to our starting point at Chapel Rock, where we were set afloat into the Superior in our double kayak, spray skirts tightly fastened over the hull to shield us from the choppy waves. 

Our two hours of paddling brought us directly to the base of massive 200 foot sheer cliffs, into the Chapel Cove, through narrow caves and underneath the massive arch at Lover’s Leap.

Soaked from at least the waist up from rain and with sore shoulders, we boarded the boat again for our return to Munising, with skies opening up and clearing for the sun to come back out. We finished the day with a beach bonfire a stone’s throw from our campground.

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Chapel Loop

We were determined to finish our trip on a strong note and we knew that meant tackling the 10 mile loop trail beginning at the Chapel Basin.

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The trek takes hikers through the heavily wooded inland area passing by Chapel Falls and then roughly follows the river out to Chapel Beach, where you begin a 4.5 mile stretch along the coast to view formations including Chapel Rock, Grand Portal Point, Indian Head and Lover’s Leap from an all together different perspective.

The hike, not especially technical, but lacking in trail markings and muddy from the previous day’s rain, tested our legs. By the end we were exhausted, but thankful for the incredible views and photo opportunities it offered.

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Until Next Time

With that, our adventure through the Upper Peninsula was over and it was time to make the drive back home over 500 miles.

We were exhausted from pushing ourselves to see as much as we could with relatively short time, but we left feeling satisfied, like we had seen a good variety of what the area has to offer.

That, and we checked off another part of the country that we’d been wanting to visit for years. There’s plenty more to explore, having only touched the eastern end of the peninsula, but we always look at it the same way: just a reason to come back again.

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